Tie, Court Dress, and Full Dress Uniforms
of black tailcoat and trousers (usually with satin double or single
stripe), white piqué shirt with wing collar, white piqué
waistcoat with lapels and
piqué bow tie. The most traditional shoes are black leather
or patent leather pumps, which often have a grosgrain bow. Black lace
ups are usually appropriate if not overly bulky. White formal gloves
are used. The
proper hat is a top hat. There
are variations in uniforms, national dress, etc. Specific components
are detailed in the regulations pertinent to each uniform.
is more than one sash worn.
sash to wear? Usually the sash of the highest grand cross held is
worn. This may be varied according to the event being attended or, as
appropriate, according to personal preference. If attending an event
of a foreign country or outside organisation, and a sash of an honour
therefrom is held, then protocol usually expects the wear of the host
country's or host organisation's decoration.
The same principles apply to neck badges and stars. This, however, is
very situationally dependent. Also, those who hold the grand crosses of
certain sashes may by custom of those orders wear the sashes of both,
with that of the higher-ranking order atop the other.
tie with sash, neck badge,
One neck badge/cross or an order or decoration may be worn with white
tie and tails (note that some traditions permit two to be worn, with
the higher badge woen over the lower-ranking badge). If two grand
crosses are held, the less senior may generally be worn on a neck
ribbon. If a sash is worn, a neck decoration is optional unless
specified in regulations. However, with a high-collared uniform,
generally up to three neck decorations may be worn, as governed by the
pertinent uniform regulations. The highest order is worn at the neck,
the second from the second button, and the third from the third button.
tie with neck badge
The stars of the orders are worn in order of precedence. If two stars
are held, then that of the higher order, even if of lower rank,
is worn above the other, frequently with the two stars forming a
vertical line. However, the line may be skewed as deemed necessary for
practical or aesthetic purposes. Sometimes two stars are worn in a
horizontal line, though this is more common on uniforms than with white
tie and tails.
If stars of three orders are
held, then they are commonly worn in a triangular formation, with one above two or two above one. If four stars are
worn, then the fourth is typically worn below the line of the second and third
with the four stars forming a general pattern of a diamond.
Occasionally, merit stars and some other stars and crosses are
specified in the regulations to be worn on the right side.
Miniature medals are worn at the discretion of the wearer, unless
specifically required by uniform regulations. Miniature
medals, if worn, should be mounted. These are usually on a single bar,
but this varies by country. On a single bar they may be swing mounted
(each medal hanging from its own ribbon drape and left to swing free),
court mounted (each medal from its own ribbon drape attached to
corresponding backing ribbons covering a rigid board; the medals are
then sewn to the board to prevent swinging), or pontifical court
mounted (suspension ribbons brought through horizontally similar to a
neck badge and then looped behind and brought down behind the
medals, without a
rigid board; the medals are then sewn to the backing ribbons to prevent swinging).
Example of miniature medals worn
with a Pontifical Court Mount.
particularly formal or ceremonial occasions, a grand collar may be
worn. The specific wear of the collar is typically given in the rules
of the order. Typically they are pinned in the middle at each
shoulder so that approximately half of the collar is in the front,
and half is in the back.
full dress attire consists of a formal, full-length gown (either
ankle-length or full-length, with or without a train), and
appropriate evening shoes. If the gown is sleeveless, then most
formally, elbow gloves are worn. Hats are generally considered
inappropriate with this level of dress, as are fascinators, unless
the weather is cold enough to require it.
The principles that apply to sashes worn by gentlemen generally
apply to ladies.
tie, or general evening dress for a gentleman consists of a black
evening jacket in a similar cut to a business suit, a black
waistcoat, a white shirt with pleats and either a winged collar or a
standard turn-down collar (usually a winged collar is considered too
formal, but is certainly not incorrect), and a black bow tie. Shoes
and gloves are as given for white tie above. The correct hat is
either a top hat or a Homburg, both in black. A fedora or similar hat
should be avoided, but is often considered tolerable when worn by
college students or young men due to the expense of the other hats.
summer or in tropical areas, regardless of the time of year, a white
dinner jacket is acceptable, though not required. The white jacket
may be worn with a black waistcoat/cummerbund or alternatively with a white
waistcoat of appropriate lightweight material. An appropriate straw
hat may be worn.
to the black evening jacket exist. Black tie uniforms have their own regulations.As
given for white tie, except that sashes usually are not worn. If the
occasion warrants usually only one sash is worn. Also, usually no more
than one star is worn, but this may vary according to the occasion.
With civil dress, one rosette or other similar miniature informal
insignia may alternatively be worn in place of all other
formal evening wear equivalent to black-tie typically consists of a
formal evening gown that may be floorlength (always without a train)
or to just below the knees. Gloves usage and style depends on the
occasion and personal preference. As with full dress, hats and
fascinators are not used in less the weather is sufficiently cold to
wear decorations pendant from a bow pinned to the left side of the
dress, either full-size (equivalent to a gentleman's neck decoration)
or in miniature. In its most simple form, usually only one such decoration is worn, and sizes
are not mixed. One or more stars may be pinned to the dress as usual. As for
gentlemen, the type and number of decorations should correspond to
the formality of the event (see gentlemen's black-tie, #1-5 above).
formal morning dress consists, most formally, of a cutaway style
morning coat in black, with dark grey or light grey trousers, which
most traditionally are striped. The waistcoat is either grey or
black. The shirt is white with a winged collar. Shoes are black,
either slip-on or lace-up. The tie typically is black or grey, plain,
striped, or spotted, and is either in the four-in-hand or ascot
style. Sometimes a bow tie may be used. The correct hat is a black
top hat. The gloves are grey. Less formally, the cutaway coat may be
grey, in which case the top hat and gloves are both grey. On some
less formal occasions, coloured ties may be used. When used as daily
dress, the general trends above are followed, except that the coat is
not a cutaway, but rather a stroller, similar in style to a business
suit. The trousers may be plain or striped. The hat may alternatively
be a black or grey Homburg or fedora.
With civil dress, if medals are worn, then they are full-size.
Example of full-size medals worn
with a Pontifical Court Mount.
Sashes generally are not worn, but are on occasion. If used, they are usually worn underneath the coat with civil dress.
civil dress, usually only one neck badge and one star may be worn, but
depending on the circumtances, as many stars as may be worn with white
tie and tails may be worn. This also varies for uniforms and clerical
dress according to regulations.
The specific decorations and
number of decorations worn with morning dress should correspond to the
formality of the event. One rosette or other similar miniature informal
insignia may alternatively be worn in place of all other decorations.
medals are not worn. Large medals, if worn, should be mounted. These
are usually on a single bar, but this various by country. On a single
bar they may be swing mounted (each medal hanging from its own ribbon
drape and left to swing free), court mounted (each medal from its own
ribbon drape attached to corresponding backing ribbons covering a rigid
board; the medals are then sewn to the board to prevent swinging), or
pontifical court mounted (as swing mounting, but with the ribbon looped
behind and brought down to the top of the medal and finished in a
point, without a rigid board; the medals are then sewn to the backing
ribbons to prevent swinging).
dress for ladies consists of a daytime formal dress typically from
floorlength to knee-length. Short kid gloves may be worn. An
appropriate formal hat or fascinator may be worn.
or Business Suits
The most appropriate insignia for a suit in general is a single rosette
or similar informal miniature insignia. The miniature/informal badge of
certain orders, such as the Pontifical Order of the Eagle or the Order
of the Golden Fleece, maybe worn pendant from the buttonhole of the
left lapel, provided that no medal bar is worn.
If worn, medals are full-size.
with large medals
A single neck badge may be worn as the occasion warrants.
Stars and collars are typically not worn, but may be according to the occasion and circumstances.
customs pertaining to the wear of decorations are identical to those